Trip report by BestHike editor Rick McCharles
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Sept. 13, 2023
Þórsmörk ➙ Emstrur Botnar
There are 3 main huts / camping areas at Þórsmörk:
The bus delivered us to Volcano hut.
We did NOT get stuck in the rivers.
Volcano hut offers these luxurious rental tents. Glamping. 😀


I dropped my pack and — as the weather was good — hiked up the closest viewpoint with most everyone who had arrived with me.

Wow. This is the Iceland I remember.
I planned to cross this river on foot when I returned.

We took a different trail down to Langidalur camp. Then hiked around the mountain back to Volcano.
It was only 13.5km to the first official campsite Emstrur / Botnar so I was in no rush.

I took a lot of photos. Shot plenty of video.

River Crossings
The most dangerous part of hiking Laugevagur are the river crossings. Plan carefully what footwear you want for wading slippery stones in (potentially) a thigh high. strong current.

I hiked in approach shoes. Used trail runners with neoprene booties for the river crossings and around camp.

Once in a while you have the luxury of a bridge.

Most available bridges are across gorges too steep to wade.

The trail is fairly well signed.

IF you have good visibility, it’s not easy to wander off trail.
Weather changes frequently. Sometimes drastically.

I love the bleak, treeless landscapes when the sun is low.


I’d camped at Emstrur Botnar 5 years earlier and liked the tent sites, somewhat protected from the wind.

